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IT’S dawn. I roll over, press a bedside button and hey presto, up whirr the electronic blinds. A flotilla of curious pelicans peers through the floor-to-ceiling window; the gentle morning sun plays dappled light on the Murray’s still waters and bathes the sheer river cliffs in gold. Ducks squabble and flap; mist smokes over the river bank where white-stemmed gums and blond grasses crowd the shores; four black swans emerge from the reeds. The river is silent but for the occasional flop of a fish or the rude squawk of a galah. We’re somewhere north of Mannum on a beautiful stretch of the Murray marked by towering limestone cliffs on one side and bird-filled billabongs on the other. Our vessel, the Boatel, is an odd looking thing, a great floating glass conservatory. I’m reminded of the glass church in Peter Carey’s Oscar and Lucinda and feel somewhat conspicuous as we drift by smaller, more mundane houseboats moored beneath the river willows or tower over single-minded rowers powering up the river at dusk. But there couldn’t be a better or more glamorous means of exploring the Murray. The Boatel’s shallow draft makes it very manoeuvrable |
and simple to operate while its great height provides excellent views of the river landscape. Stylish, spacious interiors are reminiscent of a hip Sydney hotel (think the Westin or W) with muted, neutral tones, modern but plush furnishings and supremely comfortable beds. There’s not one iota of nautical tack to be spied anywhere. The five large bedrooms are located downstairs, each detailed with elegant cherry wood, walk-in robes and glass doors to the deck. The white damask-dressed king-size beds are a highlight – Boatel owners and designers husband-and-wife architect team Paul and Susan Pruszinski made it their mission to design the perfect bed – with smooshy pillows, plump duvets and crisp cotton sheets. The bathrooms are likewise ‘luxe’ with power showers, cherry wood detailing, full-length mirrors and huge fluffy towels – unheard of levels of comfort for the humble houseboat. (Be quick and nab the room at the rear of the boat; here glass doors open onto the swimming deck and the bathroom boasts a deep tub with views.) Upstairs the living area has been cleverly designed to provide every conceivable comfort and ample |
space for quiet reading or contemplation. The open-plan room contains a smart lounging area (with pop-down movie screen and surround sound), elegant bar, state-of-the-art black granite-and-glass kitchen and a large dining area. Aft there’s a sundeck with barbecue. At the front of the boat, facing and enormous wall of glass, the small high-tech mini-bridge provides touch pad control of the entire vessel, from blinds, lights and music to the navigation screen and fish finders. The vessel is simple to control (a half-hour lesson is usually all it takes; the only requirement is a driver’s license) but a skipper can be provided for those who simply can’t be bothered. The Boatel can be hired as is $1,500 a day for up to 10 people; you provide your own food and wine) or the vessel can be fully stocked and staffed upon request. Special packages incorporating limousine transfers, overnight accommodation and meals at the swish new Rendezvous Allegra Hotel in Adelaide and winery luncheon, followed by three nights on the Boatel (with food) cost from $780 a person. |